Location:Moremi
Friday, July 27, 2012
Moremi to Thamalakane Lodge
We managed to get away at a reasonable time, partially assisted by the baboons coming to visit and for Luke the fact that we were going to a lodge. The baboons firstly took an interest in our next door neighbors, 3 young couples, obviously inexperienced in Baboon handling. One managed to score a tray of 36 eggs, and sat 20m away stuffing his face. 2 of the guys decided an aggressive approach was necessary and approached with a large stick. One grabbed the eggs whilst the other wielded the stick and yelled very loudly. It was very amusing and effective. After they left, we became the targets but they did not succeed, despite trying very hard. It was a lovely drive out of the park, about 2 hours. Quite sad as we don't know how many of these animals we will see again as we are heading to the pans and deserts of the Kalahari. Unlikely to be hippos there, maybe not even elephants. We saw them as we left there and waved goodbye. The elephants wagged their ears at us. Out of the park, we started seeing villages again. It was nice to see the locals again. We had to surrender our remaining tomatoes and spray our shoes and wheels in chemicals to ensure no fruit fly or other diseases went with us. We arrived at lunch at the lodge. We were warned about the squirrels who apparently will take things from the room. Somehow they didn't seem to be much of a concern after baboons, hornbills and monkeys. The boys went straight into the hot shower and came out a couple of shades lighter but still require further descaling of dirt. Most of our clothing was dispatched to the laundry. I don't envy them at all and will have to give a big tip. The lodge is an ideallic location next to the Thamaklane River. We had lunch overlooking the river with cold drinks and food cooked by someone else that was fresh. Everyone was very content. No one else seems to be around so the boys enjoyed the afternoon running around on the lawns and through the sprinklers, whilst Liam and I lounged about. At 5pm the German tour groups arrived en mass. We had another great meal in clean clothes. Mosquitoes visited for the first time in our trip. Climbing into a clean bed was much appreciated. We had a fabulous view outside of the river and felt quite at home with the loud frogs and the occasional hippo grunt.
Location:Maun
Xhanaxa to Third Bridge 25th July
Today we are heading to the north west part of Moremi, not very far away. Luke is starting to go on strike and is very slow at getting up. There is a bit of a breeze off the water giving the air a slight chill. Now that we can expertly navigate around this area we head back to Jessies Pools. It really is a special place and it's a beautiful morning, again. We can't remember if we have seen a cloud since we arrived in Africa, maybe a few one day. There's fewer animals in the mornings, I'm sure because of the cold, but the birds are out in full force, so many different varieties and a pelican flys in today to mix with the cranes. A hippo is basking besides one of the pools and the usual herds of antelope are around, with the odd giraffe and elephant. We notice lion tracks. As we make our way to our new campsite, some cars coming from that direction tell us they have seen lions an hour ago near 4th bridge. Liam moves into expert driving mode and we speed up. As usual no signs at the intersections and we go right for a ways until we decide it should be left and turn around. A family of striped mongoose cross the road. We come to a bridge and meet another car who have not seen lions but confirm that it is 4th bridge. They tell us there are wildebeest and zebra further up, but that's now boring, we are on a mission. We turn right into what we think is an island called Lions Park, aptly named, a good omen. Another car is coming out, lots of traffic today, and they have seen the lions. The local guide thinks hard on how to give us directions. They are a couple of km's down, past the first sausage tree, through the deep sand, behind the termite mound on the right. You have gone to far if you reach the second sausage tree, and come to the clearing with the dead trees. Turn around go through the deep sand and they are on the left. Off we go. We find the first sausage tree, we enter the deep sand, there are a lot of termite mounds, but sure enough just ahead on the right is a lioness with a reasonably old male cub. So cute. Luke wants one for a pet. This changes daily... They both look very content, the cub rolls onto his back and sits up every now and then. The lioness, just looks at us and eventually turns her back to us, not very interested. They are 20m away. We stay about 10 mins before heading further on where there are warthog and more zebra, one very pregnant. We head back to the lions to find they are gone. We have been very lucky. Our camp wasn't much further up the road, past the wildebeest, antelope, zebra and giraffe. On arrival the office girl was sitting outside. She explained we couldn't go in as there was a baboon in there refusing to come out. He was sitting in the rafters. He had created quite a mess, defecating everywhere and throwing things around the office. She explained that they were a big problem here and to the kids that they had to drop anything they were holding as the baboons were aggressive enough to come and take it off them. Down at campsite no 1, we were again next to the hippo pool in the best spot. No baboons in sight,they must be at the other end. After a lazy lunch, not very exciting now, Liam and I headed back to the office to find out about boats. The boys didn't want to go in a mokoro as it would be too close to hippos and crocs. The baboon was still in the office. We chatted to the girl still sitting outside who is from Serowe, where the Bots president is from. A good man. She would like us to find her an Australian man between 30 and 35, doesn't have to be good looking but preferably with lots of money. She would like to emigrate. Apparently students studying medicine and engineering often finish their studies in Australia. An English couple arrive who have come from Joburg on the route we are heading back, across the pans. They enthuse about its beauty. As we are chatting an English man who they have hired their car from comes running up and demands to know the route they are taking. He tells them all the places they can't go, all the places we have been, as it is too dangerous for their car. Either too wet or too sandy. He is at camp to pick up another rental car who's engine has seized from driving through the water. Neither he or the renter who is going to have to pay for it are happy. We tell them the routes are fine, and head back to our campsite. Later in the afternoon we go for a final Moremi game drive. It's another stunning evening and we see the usual animals including tsessbe and some stunning birds. A lone hippo starts snorting and thrashing about telling us he is not happy, so we head off. It is dark again when we get back. The evening meal is getting a bit desperate and we are all looking forward to proper food at the lodge tomorrow. A frenchman drops in some chocolates. Liam had helped him fix the electric fuses In his car which we are now expert at and we had given him advice on where to go. The hippos are grunting as we go to bed.
Location:Moremi
Thursday, July 26, 2012
Xhanaxa Camp Moremi Game Reserve 24 July
Lions and an elephant passed through camp list night. People thought the lions might be heading to Jessie's Pool so after a leisurely breakfast, making damper, we went in search of them. The map we had was particularly inaccurate, not helped by roads being closed due to the flooding water, so we promptly got lost. We ended up back near the airfield and went to Paradise Pools where there were a lot of elephant which we stopped to watch for a while. We also saw the rare Sitatunga antelope, but no lions. Deciding on a different route to Jessies Pools, we got very lost before eventually deciding we had got there by the large masses of water. It was worth it though as it was very beautiful with hippo, elephant, buffalo and giraffes and of course antelope. We took a wrong turn on the way back and had to trek through water before eventually getting back by standing on the top of the car and finding an aerial to head for. Our 1 hour drive had taken 4 hours. We were comforted by our next door neighbor who had also got very lost. Craig a South African, is very passionate about wildlife and was emphasizing to the kid how lucky they are to be seeing the animals in this part of Africa where they are free roaming. In many parts of Africa like South Africa and Kenya they are in large game parks that are surrounded by electric fences. This has the problem of reducing the gene pools of the animals as well as making them very tame, taking the excitement out of seeing them in the true wild. Later in the afternoon we decided to visit Jessie's Pools again now that we knew how to get there. There was some game around but no lions so we headed over to paradise pools, following a safari truck full of local kids. We thought they might be in the know and off to see something interesting so we followed through deep sand and water, but it turned out they were going to see some hippos who were not happy. Once again it was dark when we got back. Beautiful sunset though. Our water tank had leaked through the back of the car and was now empty. Luckily there are taps nearby and we only have one day to go before civilization in the form of a lodge in Maun. We are all excited by that prospect. Everything is in need of a very good clean. It's warmer tonight, we still need a fire but it's not as cold going to bed.
Location:Moremi
Linyanti to Savuti 22 July
We left later than expected for Savuti and headed north. We were told the 40kms would be deep sand, but fortunately it was only about 5km and we made reasonable time. We travelled primarily through bush, passing the occassional elephant or buck. As we approached Savuti the landscape opened up into pans. We decided to go for a bit of a look around before heading to our campsite for lunch, which turned out to be an off road extravaganza. After meeting giraffe and a very old elephant who promptly sat down and sadly very much looked like he would not get up again, we headed to Quarry hill. What we thought was going around the hill ended up going up the hill on a very rocky track. From the top were spectacular views of the surrounding plains. Coming down was equally slow with the rocks and steepness. We then started to circle around back to camp. The map showed the tracks crossing the Savuti river back and forth but when we got to the river crossings they were huge and deep. We travelled quite a way south before the river started to subside enough for crossing. It was now swamp. As we were uncertain how deep the crossings were, Mandy got to walk throught the swamps first to see how deep they were, scaring the waterbuck out of the way, then directing Liam and the boys through with the car. At times the water came over the windows but we made it through. We later found out that the Savuti hadn't flowed for 36 years, so the maps were on the basis that it was dry. They have had to put in a bridge next to the camp to allow crossing. So now it was early afternoon by the time we got to camp, registered and found our site. Number 1 site again, by the river, we we lucky as the others were dust bowls, and we were the envy of the other campers. This time hornbills were terrorizing our camp, trying to steal the food wherever possible. After a lunch break we headed out in search of lions which we had been told had spotted a few km's away. We reached the supposed location, spotting lots of other game on the way but no lions. They are doing a good job of eluding us. We continued on with christopher and Mandy on the roof as scouts. Although it was another beautiful evening and lots of game, we weren't having any luck. There was a distinct lack of signs and after a while we were no longer sure where we were and the sun was fading fast. We turned around and headed in a northly direction. Lots of elephants were having dust baths. After a while we came across group of cars, we hadn't see anyone else that evening. They had found a leopard! We were very fortunate that it was hunting early and we could see it very clearly, a beautiful animal, not at all perturbed by the crowd around it. We had now seen all of the big 5. Further on we saw tsessbe, another type of antelope similar in size to a Kudu. We hadn't seen these before. As it was now almost dark, we followed one of the safari cars back arriving back in the dark. It wasn't long after, a fire was lit, we had dinner and bed.
Location:Chobe
Savuti to Xhanaxa Moremi 23 July
After all our offroading pursuits the previous day, the contents of our car had not fared particularly well, especially in terms of the custard and milk. This took quite a bit of cleaning up so we didn't get away particularly early. We didn't have a verylong way to drive about 180 km, but given the conditions of the roads, or lack of, we were expecting it to take the whole day. We visited the rock paintings on the way out, but weren't convinced that they were very old. It took us 3 hours to get out of Chobe, passing various game on the way out. The lack of signage and disintegration of the road often left us wondering if we were on the right track, but eventually we made it to the gate. It was another hours drive to Moremi Game Reserve in the Okavanga Delta. Each year after the raining season the river of the Okavango flows down to the delta flooding the area, and trapping the game onto various islands and land masses. It is famous for its bird life as well as good assortment of game in a relatively confined area. We were not sure how good the road was going to be as it depends on how much the water has receded. We had lunch by the banks of the Khwai River, a very pleasant spot. Shortly after we encountered our first delta water crossing which was pretty big. 3 cars were on the other side and they indicated down river and drove off. Down a bit further we could cross, after some wading and shortly after we arrived at the park entrance great, after speaking to the Germans who had been in the 3 cars on the opposite side of the river. When we registered for entering the park, which is a lot more expensive than Namibia, they told they had see lions with their cubs nearby. Off we went searching again but again they eluded us. It was another 2 hour drive to our camp, still a bumpy rod but a very pretty drive. Moremi switches between forest of very green trees, swamp and clear pools of water surrounded by massive reeds and grass plains. Zebra, giraffe, antelope and elephant were all around but not in the large numbers as in Chobe. By the camp entrance is a runway where small planes seem to land regularly. Elephant are on the runway. It is nearly dark as we setup, next to water full of reeds in the No. 1 campsite. This really pleases the boys that we are always at the No. 1 campsite. We are all tired after a day in the car and pleased that we are here for 2 nights so don't have to move off in the morning.
Location:Moremi
Sunday, July 22, 2012
Chobe Ihaha to Linyanti campsite 21 July
After a noisy night of animals, elephants walking through the campsite, baboons arguing and zebras stampeding it was quite astounding to get up in the morning and find after approx 500 animals at our campsite in the evening, only a few baboons remained. After a disappointing discovery that the showers were cold, we had breakfast around the fire, packed up and headed off. We went back via the bush for half the way. Animals aren't nearly as easy to see, but it was beautiful countryside. Once back on the river, we found the animals starting to come down to the plains as the sun got higher. We left the park, and headed towards the next entry gate 70km away. The Botswanan government is making it more and more difficult for independent travelers to travel through the park. They are only allowed in if they have campsites or accommodation booked of which there are only 3 public campsites with 5 to 6 camps each. Most lodges are not used by independent travellers due to their excessive fees. We were not allowed to go across the middle of the park, the excuse being we would get lost, so had to go around the western border. Where we entered again is very remote, and 70kms of Sandy track before we got to the official gate for Linyanti our next stop. There had only been one other set of people through in the last 4 days. It was like driving through a war zone as we passed through the bush. Elephants had broken the trees all over the place and trashed the bush. It didn't take long to get into camp but it was slow going. We were the only foreigners there when we arrived. The public camps are run by private companies and this one is also in the process of having a lodge put up. They are expecting their first guests in 3 weeks so we are lucky to have the place to ourselves. The rangers told us there is a pride of lions in the area that came through camp that morning. As they are essentially lazy they thought we might find them a bit further up from the camp. We went searching, taking tracks by the river but couldn't find them. Our search kept getting hindered by elephants blocking the road which we couldn't get around. One particularly difficult elephant actually took a branch and put it across the road. Back at camp, the promise of hot showers was very short lived, but it couldn't be put off any longer. We are camped in front of a lagoon full of hippos who are very noisy. It's another special spot. Another group turned up later. We went for a final search for the lions, but no luck. Vervet monkeys are terrorizing our campsite and got away with a banana. Lion prints this morning show they passed through camp last night. We are heading into the heart of Chobe to Savuti today, lion country, and then into the Okavanga delta for 3 nights so we will be offline for a while. The boys are enjoying playing with the monkeys as we have breakfast and pack up.
Location:Chobe, Linyanti
Hunting party by Luke
In the morning☀ we set out with the bushmen, Chris brought his knife I brought my bow and quiver with arrows🎯. They were showing us how to hunt! We set off in our Toyota Hilux🚙, the wheels were let down for the sand. We were in the car🚙 for 10 or 20 minutes. When we got there we got out of the car🚙, then Chris decided that he wouldn't bring it but I still brought my bow🎯. Then we were off. We started by walking🚶 in the forest🌴🌴. After 20 minutes of walking in the yellow grass🌾I got a bit bored😒 then the bushmen sat down I wondered what they were doing? then mum sat down then chris then dad. so I sat down with them then our guide told us that they wanted to teach us how to make string out of plants.🌷🌷 (At the end of my writing i will tell you how to make string) after they showed us how to make string we got up and started walking🚶 again through the yellow grass.🌾 It was amazing 😱 how the bushmen survived with only nature to use. "I didn't notice that we were going around in circles, so we would end up at the cars again. It was annoying scratching seeds Off my leg. After a while of walking the bushmen sat down again I knew now that you sit down I wondered what they were doing this time? The man with the Mohawk At the front of his head started to dig out a little plant. When it was Fully dug out it wasn't little any more it was big! It had a big white ball on the bottom in instead of roots! The man started scraping the big white ball. Then a while later he stopped and picked up some scrapings and squeezed them. Then water came out and then the man scrubbed with the scrapings what were squeezed on him. Then they said that the water was drinkable but sour then he got some more scrapings and everyone had a wash and tried the water and agreed that it was sour. When we were back walking on earth I saw the cars.
THE END
If you Want to know how to make string read on!
To make string you get this plant called sisal you rub off the leaf with a carved stick. Leaving the fibrous part of the plant reaming. You twist this in your hand in till it turns into string! Hurray you made string!
THE END!
Saturday, July 21, 2012
Chobe National Park 20th July 2012
This is probably getting boring, but we have had another amazing day in Chobe. After an early freezing cold but beautiful morning, we cruised back up the river to Kasane exiting Namibia immigration again, and entering Botswana. We said goodbye to Daniel, leaving him some food and hoped he had enough petrol to get back. Our car was waiting for us and we headed off to get stocked up for the next week. Kasane was out if diesel so we left to fill up out of town. Back in town , we stocked up on food, botswanan Pula, water and 2 catapults. It was 1:30pm when we entered Chobe park by road, crossing firstly in the main road to the other side of the park. Elephants were sleeping near the road, and we passed Vervet monkeys, Zebra and antelopes. We entered the park proper at Ngoma Gate and immediately hit sand, so stopped to let our tyres down.
After about 10 minutes we came down to the river bed where we were met by about 100 zebra, antelope and a herd of elephants. We continued along the river bank to our campsite for the evening for the rest of the afternoon. There were only a few other cars around as there are no lodges at this part of he park. We came to herds of zebra which would have been in the hundreds, we passed over 100 giraffes and hundreds of antelope mainly steenbok, but a few Sable, Kudu and waterbuck.m
We came across about one hundred vultures feeding on a dead giraffe next to a waterhole. It wasn't obvious how it had died, but it was fairly recent. An ugly sight, they are very unattractive birds. Maribu storks were also joining in the party. We came to our campsite at about 5 pm. We couldn't have asked for a better site. It was at the start of the river bend, looking out across a massive flood plain. Within 100.m were about 300 elephants, a couple of hundred zebra, baboon, antelopes and hippos grunting from the river. The elephants were swimming across the river where there was more grass.
After about 10 minutes we came down to the river bed where we were met by about 100 zebra, antelope and a herd of elephants. We continued along the river bank to our campsite for the evening for the rest of the afternoon. There were only a few other cars around as there are no lodges at this part of he park. We came to herds of zebra which would have been in the hundreds, we passed over 100 giraffes and hundreds of antelope mainly steenbok, but a few Sable, Kudu and waterbuck.m
We came across about one hundred vultures feeding on a dead giraffe next to a waterhole. It wasn't obvious how it had died, but it was fairly recent. An ugly sight, they are very unattractive birds. Maribu storks were also joining in the party. We came to our campsite at about 5 pm. We couldn't have asked for a better site. It was at the start of the river bend, looking out across a massive flood plain. Within 100.m were about 300 elephants, a couple of hundred zebra, baboon, antelopes and hippos grunting from the river. The elephants were swimming across the river where there was more grass.
Location:Chobe
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